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Come, Let's Climb This Skyscraping Cinnamon Bread to the Moon

Maida Heatter ends the headnote of her aptly-named “Mile-High Cinnamon Bread” with a direct order: “Have your camera ready for this.” Listen to Maida.

Maida Heatter's Mile-High Cinnamon Bread
Maida Heatter’s Mile-High Cinnamon Bread
by Sarah Jampel

While there’s a solid line-up of very good swirl breads out there (you’ll find four at the bottom of this post), the first thing you’ll notice about Maida’s—a “spectacular loaf that deserves some special words of praise [emphasis my own]” in a book titled Best Dessert Book Ever—is its incredible height and staggering number of spiraling rings, as if the loaf were a sacred old tree.

That greater number of swirls means a smaller bread to cinnamon-cocoa-sugar ratio, which, in turn, means a higher chance of sweet-spiciness in every bite and more opportunity to unpeel the bread (preferably, toasted and buttered) lobe by lobe, from the crisp outside to the feathery core.

You also have the option of baking 2 more reasonably-sized loaves. Follow the recipe, but divide the dough in two and halve all the suggested dimensions.

How is that incredibly precise and plentiful swirl achieved? Maida uses a special Double-Sprinkle, Fold-n’-Roll Technique™ to maximize the bread’s height and swirl count. You’ll fold the dough before you jelly-roll it, sprinkling in the filling at both points and thereby creating two concurrent circles that follow the same path but never meet, like two strangers on the same commute.

After mixing together the dough (this happens, breezily, in a food processor—more on that in future articles*) and allowing it to rise, you’ll prepare an extremely large surface (clean your floor really well and you might even use that? I’m kidding). If you’ve got a small kitchen, the work space will seem practically as-seen-from-space huge, because you’ll be rolling the dough out to a rectangle that’s 12 by 22 inches.

*This recipe flings so many tips and techniques, we’ve just got to save some.
My edges should be square. Maida, forgive me.
My edges should be square. Maida, forgive me.
Photo by James Ransom

Next, you’ll brush that smooth expanse with vanilla water, which, as it sounds, is a mixture of vanilla extract and water that helps the cinnamon filling (sprinkled over top with the utmost care) adhere, adds subtle flavor, and moistens the dough from the inside out.

Sprinkle it—"care beful!"—with a mixture of cinnamon, sugar, cocoa, and nutmeg.
Sprinkle it—”care beful!”—with a mixture of cinnamon, sugar, cocoa, and nutmeg.
Photo by James Ransom

Once you’ve basted with vanilla water and dusted with cinnamon sugar, you make the fold by lifting the bottom long side into the center, like a bed sheet, then repeating with the opposite side, so that the two kiss in the middle. Pinch the seam to seal, then use the rest of the vanilla water and cinnamon sugar to cover the blank dough you’ve just exposed.

Like tucking a dollie into bed.
Like tucking a dollie into bed.
Photo by James Ransom

Finally, it’s time to jelly-roll the dough—now a thinner, slightly longer rectangle of 7 by 25 inches—into a squat, chubby loaf.

Just you wait: This will be the most satisfying feeling.
Just you wait: This will be the most satisfying feeling.
Photo by James Ransom

Transfer it to a loaf pan (the standard 9-by-5 will work), hiding the seam, and sprinkle the top with a bit of sugar.

Goodnight, sweet angel.
Goodnight, sweet angel.
Photo by James Ransom

Once the dough has rested, you’ll use a sharp knife (or a single-edge razor, if you’ve got one, a lame if you’re fancy) to score the top, so that it rises higher and more evenly. Maida suggests six lengthwise slits, about an inch apart and only 1/4-inch deep, as to not expose the underlying filling. (Due to personal incompetency, I have not been able to follow this instruction any time I’ve followed the recipe, as you’ll see from the eight slices above. And things have still worked out.)

So I didn't following the scoring instructions precisely...
So I didn’t following the scoring instructions precisely…
Photo by James Ransom

After all of this vigilant dough folding, and rolling, and sprinkling, and slicing, you’ll bake the loaf for 45 minutes at 350° F and watch it puff with pride—that same pride you’ll feel when you slice it open and see…

The holiest moly.
The holiest moly.
Photo by James Ransom

And since the dough itself isn’t extremely rich (closer to a delicious white bread than a buttery brioche), it’s easy to cut (and to eat) thin slices, perfect for sandwiches—ice cream or otherwise.

More Twirls, More Swirls

Rhubarb Swirl Bread
Rhubarb Swirl Bread
by Erin McDowell
Cinnamon-Raisin Swirl Bread
Cinnamon-Raisin Swirl Bread
by Yossy Arefi
Chocolate Swirl Brioche
Chocolate Swirl Brioche
by Posie Harwood
Cinnamon Swirl Bread
Cinnamon Swirl Bread
by Amanda Hesser

P.S. If you haven’t read this profile of Maida by Christy Hobart in Saveur, I urge you to do so. You’ll learn, among other things, that when Maida met her husband, Ralph, he asked her to dance and she offered him a brownie: “I had some cellophane-wrapped brownies in my pocketbook, as I always do.”

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